The Transnistrian Republic is a breakaway territory of the Republic of Moldova. It is not officially a country because it does not meet one last requirement to be an independent state. The main question of the region inhabited by a Moldovan(Romanians)-Ukranian-Russian population is to decide whether they want to become a legitimate country, or they would rather join the Republic of Moldova, or perhaps Russia? Welcome to the most surreal experience, welcome to a non-existing country!
From the end of March Wizzair launches a flight to Chisinau, which is the window to the Eastern part of Europe, let’s explore the nearby Transnistria or the Moldovan region of Romania!
What makes a country a country?
Several conditions are mentioned in international law, but it is common practice to have only four elements, of which Transnistria has three:
- Territory
- Population
- Government
- Sovereignty / legitimacy
Territory
It has a well-defined territory, east of Moldova, along the Dniester River. There is also a control along the quasi-border, and entry is only possible at the designated points. The easiest way to reach Tiraspol, the unofficial capital of Transnistria, is by bus from Chisinau. As they cannot put a stamp in passports, all tourists must complete an entry form. For the first 24 hours you can stay without a permit, longer stays must be reported to the local police.
Tanks were stationed in the woods on the left before the border, and there was a restaurant on the Moldovan side of the border. The bus driver wasn’t particularly happy about having a tourist on board, but we agreed that if he had to wait more than 5 minutes for me to cross the border or if everything wasn’t right, he would leave me there.
The buses run every hour (pretty much since they leave when they are full), this is not a big threat as you can easily get back to Chisinau. Eventually he helped with the administration, they took the completed paper at the border, looked into my backpack, and warned me that I could only stay for 24 hours without checking in.
Population
In terms of population, the three largest nationalities are Moldovan (Romanian) -Ukranian-Russian with a population ratio of around 30%. The number of Gagauz and Bulgarian minorities fluctuates around 2%. It is difficult to get along with English, the best is to learn a few useful Russian expressions (where to find it, how much it costs, help, thanks, etc.), unfortunately the Romanian language did not help much either.
Several generations of a family live together in a house, they are usually kind and hospitable. It is better to look for accommodation at families than in one of the 3 hotels. The average salary is converted to RON 133, which is not a low wage according to the prices there.
Government
Its government is independent from other countries, and since the 1992 peace negotiations, Moldova has agreed not to interfere in its internal affairs, but has not promised to recognize its independence. The latter is already a huge achievement for the Republic of Moldova, as Transnistria has had Russia’s support, also in a military sense. Russian troops have since been stationed in the region as part of a peacekeeping mission.
Between 1991 and 2011, Igor Smirnov was its first president. His goals included the international recognition of the Transnistrian Republic as an independent state, but a referendum stopped him.
From time to time the question arises as to how an election or referendums of a non-democratic systems should be handled, in this case let’s agree that we have to have some reservations. After Smirnov’s first term, he won three consecutive elections with a 70-80% advantage. Confidence was shaken when in the 2006 referendum the people of Transnistria went to the polls and finally decided to join Russia, not the Republic of Moldova. Since then, two presidents have also taken turns, currently Vadim Krasnoselsky leads the breakaway zone, earning his second term in late 2021.
The current leadership has repeatedly expressed its intention to join Russia, and these voices were amplified when thea referendum in the Crimea happened.
What is missing?
Transnistria is recognized as a legitimate and sovereign state only by three other breakaway territories: South Ossetia, the Republic of Artsakh (formerly the Republic of Nagorno-Karabakh) and Abkhazia. In the absence of international recognition, we can only speak about a breakaway territory, despite the fact that the Republic of Moldova does not de facto exercise power over it.
Organization
During a short visit, Transnistria gives the impression that even the smallest details of life are organized, as in any functioning country. It is clear on the street that only international recognition is lacking.
The license plate of the cars shows the flag of Transnistria. The breakaway region has its own currency: the Transnistrian ruble, only that can be used. Its citizens have Transnistrian documents, but they use their Moldovan or Russian passports to cross the Moldovan or Ukrainian de facto border.
Visiting the region
Tiraspol will be a mini time travel, giving Central and Eastern Europeans a glimpse into the unrealized future of what it would have been if ’89 didn’t bring change.
Care must be taken, and strict adherence to all rules is paramount. Photographing military installations and government buildings is strictly prohibited, even if the prohibition or the name of the building is not indicated anywhere on the outside. For longer stays, you will need to check in with the local police, as the administration itself is complicated and language skills are required, so it is important to discuss this with the hotel in advance.
Any expression of political opinion can lead to detention, even if you are a foreigner.
Not common, but “tourist fines” can be expected. The fine must always be paid before leaving the breakaway area and will not be released on debt. In 2011, there was no international ATM in its territory.
Tiraspol
Monument to Suvorov
Statue of Generalissimo Alexander Suvorov, next to the inscription Transnistria and the flag. There are several government buildings nearby.
Tank Monument
Its name is eloquent, your visit to Tiraspol will be characterized by lots of statues and monuments.
Eternal Flame
An ever-burning flame that commemorates the past is a must-have for post-Soviet countries.
The Christmas Cathedral
Orthodox Cathedral, which was completed in 1999. It can be visited with the head and shoulders covered. It is currently the largest cathedral built to unite the majority of Orthodox believers. The number of members of other denominations is negligible.
House of Soviets
The most impressive building in Tiraspol. It is interesting that such communal houses, which were built in Soviet times, can still be found all over Russia.
Supreme Soviet
The governing council of the former Soviet Union or one of its constituent republics. That of the Soviet Union was its highest legislative authority and was composed of two equal chambers: the Soviet of Union and the Soviet of Nationalities.
Green Market Center
An ordinary market hall with local cheeses and fresh ingredients, but you cannot miss this experience. It is so important in the lives of the locals that Mariana, the girl from the bus, decided that this should be the first to show me. It is worth tasting the cakes and pastries, and the cheeses and curds are a must. You can also get souvenirs from here.
Cetatea Tighina/Bender Fortress
The 15th-century fortress is located on the right bank of the Dniester River, on the outskirts of the city. Its old name is Tighina, but the Turks renamed it Bender. It was built during the time of the greatest Moldavian ruler, Stefan The Great. It served as a prominent border fortress until the late 1800s, as it was located on the edge of the Russian Tsarist Empire.
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Source
Ukraine helps Moldova regain control over border in Transnistrian region